Oliver was seen running the streets in downtown Rishikesh. He was thin, young, and very cute. What was a dog like this doing on the streets? Even here, white fluffy, “designer dogs” are in. Between here and Haridwar, the next town, there’s a “Dog Farm;” in other words, a puppy mill. Puppies that are churned out for their looks, with no consideration for their or their mothers’ comfort, health, or well being. And no consideration for their temperaments, or socialization. So here was Oliver, covered in grease, painfully thin, and unbearably cute. I couldn't resist.
The other quality he had going for him was that he was male. When I try to find homes for some of the pups, I often hear … “Is it a boy?”
“No”
“Oh, if it was a boy I’d take it … “
So, here was a boy, fluffy and white (well, after a good clean-up), young, and adorable.
How could I leave him on the streets, scurrying between traffic, and into the garbage piles, scavenging for scraps of food? Simple, I couldn't.
Not so simple; I still have him. No takers, and not such good socialization skills.
The lack of socialization skills has me more convinced that he’s a puppy mill dog; churned out and taken from the mom and his litter mates too soon. They often don’t develop bite inhibition. With no mom or brother or sister to tell them when to stop, they simply don’t know when to stop. So, many torn shirts and skirts later, he’s still learning. It takes time, and hopefully a home will come along. If not, he will have to go back to the streets.
Doggie, Coco, Brownie
All the same dog. DCB, for short, was a wanted dog with a lovely temperament, and had a home. He’s an inside/outside dog and at an early age got a dog bite from another local dog, and the flies quickly set in. The wound became infected, and infested with maggots. This is very common in the summer time. Had he not had a home and caretakers willing to administer the proper medicines and change bandages, he would not have survived.
Happily Doggie/Coco/Brownie has done well and is thriving. He has many caretakers, hence, the multiple names. He is fed a regular diet of fresh cow’s milk and chapattis. He does well on this diet, an he is happy and wanted.
The little pup in the photo could have had a home here, too. He wandered into the compound with his brother, and they were both taken in and welcomed by the family and Doggie. After a few days, one puppy wandered off. After a few more days, someone showed up and said that was his dog. He lived not far away. He took the pup home. There was an outside cardboard box for the puppy for bedding and shelter. The monsoon rains were heavy that night. Puppy has not been seen since.
Rishikesh Bus Stand Dogs
Close to the Ganga, and just off the main road, sits one of the tourist Bus Stands.
Food stalls are set up for the tourists coming from the buses. Food stands and their leftovers bring hungry dogs. This mom made it onto the main road, and one sight of her I had to get out of my rickshaw and try to give her medication.
She was infested with mange, and untreated it would only get worse. She was sweet,and took the medication for her skin condition easily. She was obviously a mother, so the next question was were there any pups that survived and were still in the area.
I walked around and asked, and people gestured “yes, around.” As she had a horrible condition, it was likely the pups would as well. I found two, and yes, they did.
They were fearful of people, and not so easy to give the medicine to. Whether it was enough, I don’t know.
A man with a food cart offered me a bun for them. I shook my head “no,” and he said “Free, free.” He was offering them help. We fed them, and the one pup ate a little. I asked if I could take the man’s photo, and he shrugged, and gave a small laugh, and first had to twirl his mustache. Then he was ready.
I don’t know if the pups survived. This skin condition is common with street dogs. It’s painful, and it lowers the immune system. When the skin breaks and bleeds, the flies come to feed and lay their eggs. As the eggs hatch into maggots, they feed off the dog. The dogs are in misery as this condition progresses. The puppies usually aren’t strong enough to survive, and usually have internal parasites as well, plus a far less than optimal diet. I have returned to the site, but have not seen the pups.
When one considers all they have to go through to survive, you almost have to shake your head and wonder how survival is even possible.
Those that have been lucky enough to have someone look after them, do better for a while. This handsome black and white dog not only had someone watching over him, but he jumped into a tented home, and hopped right up onto the bed. Luxurious living for a street dog of Rishikesh.
Most street dogs live less than two years.
Monsoon Rains
The monsoon is endless. Rishikesh lies in the foothills of the Himalayas. The terrain is rugged, and steep. When the rains come the water pours down the mountains and carries with it everything along its way that isn’t bolted down. Landslides are common, roads are blocked, and roads turn into powerful rivers of rainwater.
Dogs are often swept down the roads, or try to run and find shelter wherever they can, not thinking of direction or familiarity with location. When the rain stops, they often don’t know where they are, and their scent is washed away. Many dogs are seen now that have never been here before. Some of them even look good, cared for. If they don’t find their way back home, that life has ended. The life they had is over, and they must start again.
They are now in unfamiliar territory, lost, chased by dogs that won’t give up their piece of the earth, and soon they will go hungry. Then the march begins; they walk and walk, not knowing where to, or to what destination, but they go on their own pilgrimage of sorts, finishing either with a new location where they will not be chased, or hit, and that has some supply of food, or with death. What is that point when they realize they will no longer be back “home;” that now they must find a place to survive, and that they will not retrieve what has now been lost?
This beautiful girl came one morning after a night of heavy rain. She was bewildered. She was obviously lost. She stayed for two days in the area, walking up and down, back and forth. She would join crowds, blending in with an army of ankles and feet, searching, hoping to find the person who belonged to her.
I fed her, found her more than once, but she was looking, looking, not interested in staying. I even brought her into my home, there was something so sad about her, I didn’t want her living on the streets. Lost. But she left the yard on her own. No other dog has managed to get out, and yet, this little terrier mix didn’t stay for more than a few hours. She wanted to find her home, and her person.
I had given her a contraceptive injection; “Family Planning,” it’s called here. She’s young; at least she won’t have the burden of being a puppy with her own litter of puppies to take care of for a while. Maybe this will give her enough time to continue her search for that which she calls “home.”
Rishikesh is part of a holy pilgrimage route in India. I can’t help but be struck how these dogs and their searching, and their endless walking take on their own sort of pilgrimage. What are we looking for as we walk? Do we really know ourselves, or are we driven by a sense of faith that there is something better, out there, for us in our own quest for “home.”
Is the sense of faith enough, or is there doubt, and uncertainty, and only a need to search that drives us in our quests?
Picky Eater
I’d been told about this pup by the Ram Jhula bridge. I was told she was very cute, very thin, and not eating. I didn’t really want to go see her; it sounded like it was too late. I sent one of the local boys who helps with the dogs to go over, and give her de-worming medicine. To everyone’s surprise, it was enough.
I saw this adorable little face looking up at me as I walked past one day, and she fit the description of the sickly dog. She has improved, and although still a "selective" eater, she should be alright. The bigger dog showed up and came alongside for food, who else could it be, but “Mama.” Both dogs, and this area have now become one of the regular feeding and caring stations for the street dogs.
Another friend shows up for a free meal; why not? They are all still there, and more, and even with the heavy rains are doing ok, so far. Family planning on order for Mamma.
Other Side of the Bridge
On another side of the bridge, this little one has found her own home. She sits, or stands, in the middle of the road, and stares into the restaurant. There are many food stands and restaurants along this road, she's picked this one, and she's loyal. Whether there's a person there to whom she has attached herself, I don't know. She's intently focused onto this restaurant. I try their food, it's ok, but nothing out of the ordinary. I try to coax her with other doggie delicacies, to get her to the side of the road, but she's not that interested. It has to come from this restaurant.
I ask them what she wants ...
"A bun."
I've got buns, I offer her some. Nope. I buy the same type of bun from this food stall, probably from the same local vendor as my bun, but now, success. She eats her bun, and goes to her bed. Someone has placed a burlap sack in a little cubbyhole under the floor of her restaurant. She goes to rest, after her bun, from only this restaurant.
She's obviously had pups, and I ask where they are ... A shrug of the shoulders is all I get.
I treat her for parasites, and she starts to put on weight. She starts to look good. Then one day I come and she is lying in the road, as usual, but when she gets up, she collapses. My heart sinks. She's been struck by a vehicle. How could it not happen; it would only be a matter of time with the way she positions herself.
I wait, not sure if moving her is good for her, and if there are internal injuries, there's no one who can help her anyway. Two days go by, one day she looks good, the next she looks in pain, and not interested in food. I dread coming today, fearful of what I will find, and I prepare myself for the worst ... Happy surprise! There she is, standing in the middle of the road, staring into her restaurant. Her customer loyalty is rewarded; I buy her a bun, she eats it up, and goes into her little cubbyhole, curls up and takes a rest.
Will repeat.
Mule and Bull
Street life is hard, for dogs, people, aging pack mules, and blind baby bulls. I had seen this female mule out on the road, in the blistering sun. She was thin, and frail, and just standing in the heat. She had a terrible wound at her back end, and the flies were gathering. I tried to find help for her, but couldn’t find her again.
Some time later, a small compound had been donated to care for street animals. It’s small, and can only house a few animals at a time. A local family has free room and board there, and they provide daily maintenance of feeding and cleaning. The mule was found again, by some local people, and to my surprise, brought to the compound. She’s still thin, and frail, but she has regular food and water, receives medical treatment, and has people who care about her looking after her. She will die, she has a condition that is too far gone to treat, but at least she now has shelter, and will not die in the street. She’s been worked hard all her life, and when no longer useful, turned out into the street, to fend for herself, as is the usual case for pack animals.
Hopefully, she has found some comfort in her final days. Her condition is not uncommon, and there are others like her on the street. More space and housing is needed to provide for even a few more.
Blind Baby Bull is the other large, current resident of the compound. He was found staggering in the streets, and is totally blind; navigating the streets and finding food was impossible for him.
I’ve been looking for a cow shed or ashram that has more room for him to take him in, but so far, no luck. He’s growing quickly, and will soon need more room, but for now, he’s sweet, and happy and well fed. The veterinarian says he’s completely blind, but he keeps turning his head as though he can see just a tiny bit out of the corner of his left eye, maybe just shadows, or light, but he keeps turning his head, hoping to see.
He will need a larger home very soon.
White Puppy
This pup was one of a litter of two. They were a yellowy white, and tucked up in a little cave in a mountain side, on a busy road. A safe spot for the mom to have her puppies, but a difficult spot for them as far as safety, once they would be old enough to move around.
Mom was a beauty. She’s another one of these dogs that just shows up … who knows where she came from, or what her story is, but there she is. She was as sweet as could be. All white, a pretty creamy white, and gentle, and affectionate, and pregnant. She loved people, and if she thought you were safe, she would come and nuzzle up against you, and just rest, at your side.
She found this very strange spot to have her babies; literally in a hole in a mountain. She had to leap up with the skills of a mountain goat to navigate her way up and down the hill. Food of course, was not on the mountainside, but across the road, where there are food stalls and people, and restaurants. We worried about the puppies, and how they would manage once they were able to walk around, and want to play. How would they climb up and down the mountain side?
Pilgrim season came, and the road traffic increased dramatically. When I saw the mom go on her search for food, it was her safety I worried about. She would cross the road by a fast dash across, not looking in either direction, but simply throwing herself through the street. This would only work so many times. When I did not see her for some time, I asked some of the local workers … it was the answer I feared. A shake of the head in a “no,” and the word “auto.” The beautiful white pup who was a mother was gone. It was her habit to run across the street only to eat, and come right back to her two pups.
Then there was only one pup. I don’t know if the one just wandered off, or also had an accident. The remaining pup learned to navigate the mountainside, and wanders down for food. This is the last time I saw her. She was a little shy with me, but when she saw I was “ok,” her little tail wouldn’t stop wagging. I want her to live. That beautiful mother should have something left of her. The pup is starting to look like her, and I hope she has the same gentle nature of her mother.
I heard from one of the children by the river that they saw a beautiful white puppy by Omkarananda ghat. This is where her mother liked to sit. It’s a beautiful area by the river, and fairly quiet and unpopulated by tourists. I no longer see the puppy on the mountainside. I hope she is all right.